Menudo is popular because in Mexican
culture it is believed to be medicine for a hangover. Restaurants
often feature it as a special on Saturday and Sunday and a few places
have it every day.
I have been reluctant, hesitant, even
fearful of trying it. Not sure exactly why. You would think, that as
a son of East Europeans (Latvians), I would not be adverse to organ
meat -- jellied pork (galerts), blood sausage, chicken livers and all
that. But... cow stomach?
Yes, tripe is, if not the main
ingredient, the most significant in menudo. This soup is prepared in
a broth heavily spiced with red chile peppers and buffered with lots
of hominy. Lots of hominy... one bowl can make one feel over-full for
hours. Fresh chopped onions, cilantro, sliced radishes, and lettuce
are added for topping. Tortillas on the side.
Incidentally, this is practically the
same base for posole (the image you see here), which is made with
pork instead of tripe.
I suppose I was afraid the tripe would
be tough. I have learned, however, that menudo takes over seven hours
to prepare (probably why it is made mainly for weekend consumption).
I was concerned, too, about the possible addition of epazote, an herb
used in much of Mexican cooking, which is said to be an "acquired
taste." In large quantities epazote is also said to be
poisonous!
Nevertheless, at El Mirador, our
favorite restaurant in Deming, one day I raised my spoon and took the
plunge.
Nothing.
The tripe was not tough; rather, it
practically melted in my mouth. It was also tasteless. I tried the
dish again at ¡Ándele!
Restaurante in Old Mesilla (Las Cruces). I liked that better, but I
think I will stick with posole.
Despite my efforts, I think, tripe will
continue to have a reputation for toughness -- as it ever has. Here
is an article (my ulterior motive for this blog post) that appeared
in "The Silver City Enterprise," February 8, 1883 (a dispatch
from "The Burlington Hawkeye"). I hope you enjoy it. It gave me
a huge and hearty (organ-meaty) laugh.
What Tripe Is.
Occasionally you
see a man order tripe at a hotel, but he always looks hard, as though
he hated himself and everybody else. He tries to look as though he
enjoys it but he does not. Tripe is indigestible, and looks like an
India-rubber apron for a child to sit on. When it is pickled it looks
like dirty clothes put on to soak, and when it is cooking it looks as
though the cook was boiling a dish-cloth. On the table it looks like
glue, and tastes like a piece of oil silk umbrella cover. A stomach
that is not lined with corrugated iron would be turned inside out by
the smell of tripe. A man eating tripe at a hotel table looks like an
Arctic explorer dining on his boots or eating a piece of frozen raw
dog. You cannot look at a man eating tripe but he will blush and look
as though he wanted to apologize and convince you he was taking it to
tone up his system. A woman never eats tripe. There is not enough
money in the world to hire a woman to take a corner of a sheet of
tripe in her teeth and try to pull off a piece. Those who eat tripe
are men who have had their stomachs play mean tricks on them, and
they eat tripe to get even with their stomachs, and then they go and
take a Turkish bath to sweat it out of the system. Tripe is a
superstition handed down form a former generation of butchers, who
sold all the meat and kept the tripe for themselves and their dogs,
but the dogs of the present day will not eat tripe. You throw a piece
of tripe down in front of dog, and see if he does not stick his tail
between his legs and go off and hate you. Tripe may have a value, but
not as food. It may be good to fill into a burglar-proof safe, with
the cement and chilled steel, or it might answer to use as a
breast-plate in time of war, or it would be good to use as bumpers
between cars, or it would make a good face for the weight of a
pile-driver, but when you come to smuggle it into the stomach you do
wrong. Bah! A piece of Turkish towel cooked in axle-grease would be
pie compared with tripe.
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